Can U use Surgical Spirit on a heated bed to make the filament stick. Making filament stick to the bed
Moderator: CrazyIvan
Making filament stick to the bed
Hi
Can U use Surgical Spirit on a heated bed to make the filament stick.
Can U use Surgical Spirit on a heated bed to make the filament stick. -
iDig3Dprinting
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Re: Making filament stick to the bed
Hi,
I have not heard of this and I think perhaps not. Alcohol is not seen as a good adhesive.
Could you tell us what material you are trying to print with and whether you have a heated bed or a heated print enclosure?
You can send us an email if you would like to discuss offline.
We can advise you on methods to improve bed adhesion if you give us some more information.
I have not heard of this and I think perhaps not. Alcohol is not seen as a good adhesive.
Could you tell us what material you are trying to print with and whether you have a heated bed or a heated print enclosure?
You can send us an email if you would like to discuss offline.
We can advise you on methods to improve bed adhesion if you give us some more information.
iDig3DPrinting -
Your source for 3D printers, 3D printing accessories and filament.
Your source for 3D printers, 3D printing accessories and filament.
Re: Making filament stick to the bed
I am using PLA filament with blue Painter's Masking Tape. I have a heated bed put its off when i use PLA.
What about Isopropyl Alcohol they say that is good.
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iDig3Dprinting
- Posts: 192
- Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2015 5:04 pm
- Location: Stroud, UK
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Re: Making filament stick to the bed
Alcohol is used to clean print beds. surface contamination can reduce adhesiveness. Alcohol does not, in of its self, provide added adhesiveness.
If you are printing with PLA on masking tape/painters tape then this should work. We always take advantage of our heated bed though and print PLA with the bed at 60C on masking tape or even kapton tape and we have no issues with warping or bed adherence. PLA should be straight forward.
The other thing to check is that you bed is level and that you have an appropriately small gap between nozzle and the bed (1 sheet of papers distance is standard). Bed levelling issues and the distance between bed and nozzle is often the greatest contributor to poor first layer adhesion.
The bed levelling issue can be sometimes seen if when printing different models they always come loose first in the same area of the bed.
So as a suggestion spend a lot of time getting your bed and nozzle heights correct. then once this is done start thinking about your build plate covering and heating strategy.
Don't go buying lots of proprietary bed adhesion products as with PLA none of these are necessary, it will be your set up.
If you have rubbish PLA that probably will not help either.
Feel free to keep asking questions, we are always happy to help.
If you are printing with PLA on masking tape/painters tape then this should work. We always take advantage of our heated bed though and print PLA with the bed at 60C on masking tape or even kapton tape and we have no issues with warping or bed adherence. PLA should be straight forward.
The other thing to check is that you bed is level and that you have an appropriately small gap between nozzle and the bed (1 sheet of papers distance is standard). Bed levelling issues and the distance between bed and nozzle is often the greatest contributor to poor first layer adhesion.
The bed levelling issue can be sometimes seen if when printing different models they always come loose first in the same area of the bed.
So as a suggestion spend a lot of time getting your bed and nozzle heights correct. then once this is done start thinking about your build plate covering and heating strategy.
Don't go buying lots of proprietary bed adhesion products as with PLA none of these are necessary, it will be your set up.
If you have rubbish PLA that probably will not help either.
Feel free to keep asking questions, we are always happy to help.
iDig3DPrinting -
Your source for 3D printers, 3D printing accessories and filament.
Your source for 3D printers, 3D printing accessories and filament.
Ok thanks for the advise Re: Making filament stick to the bed
Level your bed
The first thing you should verify is that the bed is completely level. Don’t be tempted to shortcut this step or “eye-ball” your measurements. If the bed is not level, one side of your bed may be too close to the nozzle, while the other side will too far away, resulting in uneven first layer adhesion. Tighten or loosen the knobs or screws on the build plate as needed to level the bed. Many users swear by the “paper test” for this step: They insert a sheet of ordinary writing paper between the nozzle and the print bed, allowing it to have a slight tug as they pull the paper. For a more thorough test, Simplify3D has a bed leveling wizard that walks you through this process. Be sure to try some calibration prints to verify that your bed has been properly leveled, including parts with a wide dimension so you can assess leveling across a broad area.
Adjust nozzle distance
Even if your bed is perfectly level, the nozzle might be too close to the print bed. If this occurs, the nozzle will drag across the bed and will be unable to extrude filament. Conversely, the nozzle might be too far away from the build plate, which would result in filament cooling before it can stick. To adjust the nozzle distance, you can either modify your hardware or use a software like Simplify3D to edit the Z-Axis Global G-Code Offset. For instructions on how to do this, see the Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide.
Treat the build surface
Each filament has its own unique properties, including the ability to stick (or not stick) to various materials. 3D printer manufacturers are aware of this fact, and often suggest specific brands of filament to work with their print platforms. For instance, PLA tends to stick well to print beds using BuildTak sheets. ABS, on the other hand, adheres better to heated glass beds. If you plan to print directly onto the build plate, it would be wise to clean it with a little water or rubbing alcohol first.
In addition to special build platforms, there are a number of self-help options to help create a more secure bond between the filament and the print bed. A favorite trick here at the Simplify3D office is to cover the platform with strips of blue painter’s tape and a thin layer of glue from a common glue stick. This works especially well for printing PLA on unheated beds. Kapton tape, or Polyimide film, works well for ABS. We also like using tape because it serves a dual purpose: helping prints stick and protecting the build platform. There are plenty of other substances that users swear by, such as Aqua Net hairspray and slurries of ABS and acetone. Don’t be afraid to experiment to find what works best for your printer and your filaments.
The first thing you should verify is that the bed is completely level. Don’t be tempted to shortcut this step or “eye-ball” your measurements. If the bed is not level, one side of your bed may be too close to the nozzle, while the other side will too far away, resulting in uneven first layer adhesion. Tighten or loosen the knobs or screws on the build plate as needed to level the bed. Many users swear by the “paper test” for this step: They insert a sheet of ordinary writing paper between the nozzle and the print bed, allowing it to have a slight tug as they pull the paper. For a more thorough test, Simplify3D has a bed leveling wizard that walks you through this process. Be sure to try some calibration prints to verify that your bed has been properly leveled, including parts with a wide dimension so you can assess leveling across a broad area.
Adjust nozzle distance
Even if your bed is perfectly level, the nozzle might be too close to the print bed. If this occurs, the nozzle will drag across the bed and will be unable to extrude filament. Conversely, the nozzle might be too far away from the build plate, which would result in filament cooling before it can stick. To adjust the nozzle distance, you can either modify your hardware or use a software like Simplify3D to edit the Z-Axis Global G-Code Offset. For instructions on how to do this, see the Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide.
Treat the build surface
Each filament has its own unique properties, including the ability to stick (or not stick) to various materials. 3D printer manufacturers are aware of this fact, and often suggest specific brands of filament to work with their print platforms. For instance, PLA tends to stick well to print beds using BuildTak sheets. ABS, on the other hand, adheres better to heated glass beds. If you plan to print directly onto the build plate, it would be wise to clean it with a little water or rubbing alcohol first.
In addition to special build platforms, there are a number of self-help options to help create a more secure bond between the filament and the print bed. A favorite trick here at the Simplify3D office is to cover the platform with strips of blue painter’s tape and a thin layer of glue from a common glue stick. This works especially well for printing PLA on unheated beds. Kapton tape, or Polyimide film, works well for ABS. We also like using tape because it serves a dual purpose: helping prints stick and protecting the build platform. There are plenty of other substances that users swear by, such as Aqua Net hairspray and slurries of ABS and acetone. Don’t be afraid to experiment to find what works best for your printer and your filaments.