Hi All.
I'm currently using 6 modified Ender 3 V2's and CR10 Max's, all with the same setup, direct drive and Micro Swiss hotends, but I'm having nightmares with the heat blocks coming loose. The printers are running most of the time so they do work hard but no matter what I try every 48hrs or so they're loose. All get installed as per the instructions from Micro Swiss and I've even watched and read various things to make sure I'm installing correctly. I really don't get it.
I'm starting to feel like these expensive Micro Swiss hotends aren't quite up to the job.
So if anyone has any thoughts, solutions or recommendations for better hotends it would be much appreciated.
All Metal Hotend Recommendations
Moderator: CrazyIvan
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MichaelScarborough93
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- Joined: Wed May 18, 2022 8:26 am
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Re: All Metal Hotend Recommendations
Genuine E3D V6 . I'm quite pleased with mine.
However, avoiding filament leaks is entirely about putting the nozzle snug against the heat break (throat), not maintaining the bowden tube in contact with the nozzle, as appears to be the current buzzword. For starters, it only works if you can maintain the bowden tube in contact with the nozzle, which is nearly difficult with the terrible bowden couplings that come with low-cost printers. Second, with an all-metal hot end, it's not even a possibility.
It seems harsh to tell individuals who are new to 3D printing that the proper approach to control leaks is to keep the bowden tube in contact with the nozzle. While the nozzle is still hot, tighten it against the heat break.
Get a set of PTFE-lined throats for a simpler solution. They are partially stopped at the upper end to attach the PTFE liner, and the liners are significantly longer to ensure that they are forced up against the nozzle (but the nozzle must still be tight against the throat). You won't have to be concerned about your bowden tube being slightly slack.
However, avoiding filament leaks is entirely about putting the nozzle snug against the heat break (throat), not maintaining the bowden tube in contact with the nozzle, as appears to be the current buzzword. For starters, it only works if you can maintain the bowden tube in contact with the nozzle, which is nearly difficult with the terrible bowden couplings that come with low-cost printers. Second, with an all-metal hot end, it's not even a possibility.
It seems harsh to tell individuals who are new to 3D printing that the proper approach to control leaks is to keep the bowden tube in contact with the nozzle. While the nozzle is still hot, tighten it against the heat break.
Get a set of PTFE-lined throats for a simpler solution. They are partially stopped at the upper end to attach the PTFE liner, and the liners are significantly longer to ensure that they are forced up against the nozzle (but the nozzle must still be tight against the throat). You won't have to be concerned about your bowden tube being slightly slack.