Morning all
Just got my first 3D printer and thought I’d pop in and say hello… Hello
I’ve just bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo 2 and so far I am pretty please with it.
One thing I do have an issue with is when printing multiple prints at the same time I have issues with either one or multiple prints moving.
Cheers.
Newb here.
Moderator: CrazyIvan
Re: Newb here.
Greetings.
When you say "moving", do you mean they're coming off the bed?Speedytriple wrote: Thu Nov 30, 2023 10:48 am One thing I do have an issue with is when printing multiple prints at the same time I have issues with either one or multiple prints moving.
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Re: Newb here.
Yes, I received an irate phone call off the Mrs this morning telling me the printer was going haywire. Turns out it had jammed and pulled the extruder hose through onto the filament reel.
However usually just one of the items comes loose on the bed and messes up both.
It’s fine when printing one item but more than one is a bit iffy.
The Z axis is set to -1.99 after auto levelling. Not sure if that’s correct or not.
Thanks.
However usually just one of the items comes loose on the bed and messes up both.
It’s fine when printing one item but more than one is a bit iffy.
The Z axis is set to -1.99 after auto levelling. Not sure if that’s correct or not.
Thanks.
Re: Newb here.
Lots of questions:
Are you using raft or brim to improve adhesion?
What type of bed is it, is it heated, and are you using any extra tack such as spray?
What type of filament?
As for the Z, it's normal to adjust the Z offset manually so that the thickness of normal A4 copy paper will just slide with friction under the nozzle. I don't know about the Neo2 specifically, but this is what's usual unless the instructions say you don't need to. Bed levelling compensates for errors in bed alignment, it does not compensate for Z offset in the sensor.
Are you using raft or brim to improve adhesion?
What type of bed is it, is it heated, and are you using any extra tack such as spray?
What type of filament?
As for the Z, it's normal to adjust the Z offset manually so that the thickness of normal A4 copy paper will just slide with friction under the nozzle. I don't know about the Neo2 specifically, but this is what's usual unless the instructions say you don't need to. Bed levelling compensates for errors in bed alignment, it does not compensate for Z offset in the sensor.
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Re: Newb here.
Thanks for the reply.
I’m not sure what a raft or brim is. I’m very new to the whole 3D thing.
Bed is heated to 60 degrees and no I’m not using any other tack.
Filament is Anycubic PLA+ Black.
The Z sets itself during auto bed levelling.
It can be manually adjusted but I’m not sure how I do it. Do I do it at many points across the bed as the bed doesn’t actually move up or down during levelling the print nozzle adjusts to compensate for any points at which the bed isn’t level so I’m not sure how manually adjusting the Z affects this.
Thanks.
I’m not sure what a raft or brim is. I’m very new to the whole 3D thing.
Bed is heated to 60 degrees and no I’m not using any other tack.
Filament is Anycubic PLA+ Black.
The Z sets itself during auto bed levelling.
It can be manually adjusted but I’m not sure how I do it. Do I do it at many points across the bed as the bed doesn’t actually move up or down during levelling the print nozzle adjusts to compensate for any points at which the bed isn’t level so I’m not sure how manually adjusting the Z affects this.
Thanks.
Re: Newb here.
So you've jumped into all this without much looking? They are settings in the slicer which add extra area to the first layer of print, improving adhesion to the bed. There are plenty of instructional YouTube videos, just search "raft brim" (skirt isn't particularly useful IMO). Brim is easier to remove than raft, but raft is most reliable.Speedytriple wrote: Fri Dec 01, 2023 8:31 am I’m not sure what a raft or brim is. I’m very new to the whole 3D thing.
Sounds okay, but it very much depends on the shape of the first layer. Sharp corners can pull away when there is nothing else to support them and add grip. Also, the first few inches of "print' may not be flowing very well from the nozzle, so raft or brim gets over that by adding sacrificial print.Bed is heated to 60 degrees and no I’m not using any other tack.
Filament is Anycubic PLA+ Black.
If your print bed is dead smooth, rather than something like textured glass, you will probably need to add some sort of grip medium (although you might get away with it using a raft). Adhesion of the first layer is the most critical part of FDM printing. Decorators masking tape works well, but there are more sophisticated options.
You need to find out. The gap between the nozzle and the bed for the first layer is critical (and as I mentioned above, should be about the thickness of a piece of copy paper).The Z sets itself during auto bed levelling.
It can be manually adjusted but I’m not sure how I do it.
Automatic bed levelling reads how the bed (or the nozzle positioning mechanism) varies over its area. Assuming the bed is flat, it only needs to measure three points to do this. The printer firmware then constantly adjusts the height of the nozzle to compensate for the height of the bed at the particular coordinate of the nozzle, during the print, so you won't really notice anything.Do I do it at many points across the bed as the bed doesn’t actually move up or down during levelling the print nozzle adjusts to compensate for any points at which the bed isn’t level so I’m not sure how manually adjusting the Z affects this.
This has nothing to do with the absolute gap between the nozzle and the bed for the first layer of print. The G-Code tells the printer to position the nozzle at height = 0 for the first layer, so first you have to make sure "height = 0" is the correct gap. There will be a setting in the menus to do this.
However, as you say you have had some success with the printer, the Z offset probably isn't too far out. If you have to adjust any of the mechanism though (eg change the nozzle), you will have to check it.
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Re: Newb here.
Thanks for the reply mate.
I’ve done a few more prints with varying degrees of success.
Most come out ok but have some where there’s some bridging involved sometimes come out with a lot of looping and saggy bridges.
For example I printed 2 sides of a RPi case and the. Side with the flat back direct onto the bed was fine but the front case was basically one great bridge. It came out ok but the whole of the inside was full of loops.
However I did it on a raft and nothing moved.
Thanks again.
I’ve done a few more prints with varying degrees of success.
Most come out ok but have some where there’s some bridging involved sometimes come out with a lot of looping and saggy bridges.
For example I printed 2 sides of a RPi case and the. Side with the flat back direct onto the bed was fine but the front case was basically one great bridge. It came out ok but the whole of the inside was full of loops.
However I did it on a raft and nothing moved.
Thanks again.
Re: Newb here.
Unsupported spans are not a good idea, so there is another setting in the slicer to turn on (and alter the characteristics of) "support". Like raft, this is sacrificial print to be removed on completion.Speedytriple wrote: Sun Dec 03, 2023 7:02 pm Most come out ok but have some where there’s some bridging involved sometimes come out with a lot of looping and saggy bridges.
For example I printed 2 sides of a RPi case and the. Side with the flat back direct onto the bed was fine but the front case was basically one great bridge. It came out ok but the whole of the inside was full of loops.
There is an air gap setting which slightly separates support (and raft) from the actual print, not enough to let the layer above sag, but to reduce the adhesion. If that is tuned properly (try the default first), the support should come off in more or less one piece.
You can also reorientate the model in the slicer, to minimise bridges and overhangs. Your "front case" could be turned upside down (or on its side) before slicing.
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Re: Newb here.
Thanks mate.
I did flip the front cover over and the lettering came out back to front.
which was clearly my fault. Mirrored and was fine.
I’ve been experimenting with rafts and supports and get it now I think.
I guess if the bridge is higher up then perhaps some sort of support is in order? Maybe tree or the other one that I forget the name of.
Thanks again.
I did flip the front cover over and the lettering came out back to front.
I’ve been experimenting with rafts and supports and get it now I think.
I guess if the bridge is higher up then perhaps some sort of support is in order? Maybe tree or the other one that I forget the name of.
Thanks again.
Re: Newb here.
Rotation about one of the axes wouldn't have mirrored the text so I don't know what you did, unless you were actually rotating the object in FreeCAD or something rather than using the slicer.Speedytriple wrote: Mon Dec 04, 2023 7:06 pm I did flip the front cover over and the lettering came out back to front.which was clearly my fault. Mirrored and was fine.
Yep, that's what it's for! I would select conventional support for engineering-type builds, tree is more organic and appropriate for rounder things.I guess if the bridge is higher up then perhaps some sort of support is in order? Maybe tree or the other one that I forget the name of.