Printing speed of benchy on my new KC1

[HobGoblyn]

Hi all

Had my Creality KC1 delivered yesterday and the first thing I tried was printing the Benchy from the gcode supplied on the printer it's self.

This seemed to print perfectly and took 16 mins.

I have downloaded Creality_Print slicer and that has a few built in tests including the Benchy stl.

So I though I would have a go at slicing that to see if I can get the same results.

I didn't change anything as after I selected my printer, it defaulted to PLA with a 0.4 nozzle and a 0.2mm layer height (which according to their instructions was what to choose)

I left all the other options at default, oddly, the speed tab didn't show ant options?

Anyway I printed it and it came out looking identical, only this time it took 31 mins instead of 16 mins.


So, obviously I don't want to take double the time for what appears to be an identical looking object.

So the question is, what settings have I got wrong?


I've watched a few YouTube vids and it seems the consensus is I shoudn't be using the Creality slicer but should be using Orca or Cura instead, and I should be rooting my printer.

This is all fine when I know what I'm doing and feel more confident, at the moment I can print from my MacBook from Creality_print and also watch it print on my laptop, I kind of don't want to mess with what works on my first few days with it.

I have linked to both Benchy files (labeled slowbench and fastbench), I've tried to work out what's going on from a list of Gcode commands I found but am none the wiser at the moment,

Many thanks

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aUBCKb ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15y-wfo ... sp=sharing

[Bikeracer]

This seemed to print perfectly and took 16 mins.

I have downloaded Creality_Print slicer and that has a few built in tests including the Benchy stl.

Anyway I printed it and it came out looking identical, only this time it took 31 mins instead of 16 mins.

So, obviously I don't want to take double the time for what appears to be an identical looking object.

So the question is, what settings have I got wrong?

Maybe if it's not broke, don't try to mend it.

On a more serious note......If your printer has built in profiles for a particular filament just stick to them until you feel more confident. If you want to alter things, just alter one thing at a time. It's probable that Orca slicer will be better than the Creality slicer.

I've got a Bambu printer and now only use Bambu filaments and the inbuilt profiles, and just lower the fan speed layer time and also the maximum volumetric speed, perhaps also lowering the outer wall speed down a bit.

Never printed a benchy and probably never will, even though Bambu included a little clockwork outboard motor with the printer.

[HobGoblyn]

Thanks

It's just weird to me that the printers slicing softwares built in profile, produces a gcode file that takes twice as long as the gcode file supplied on the internal memory.

Not sure I'm explaining myself properly.

When I turn on the printer and hit the files buttom on the printer, I have internal or USB.

On the internal is the benchy Gcode, already sliced.

On their supplied software, they also include a benchy stl as one of the test prints I can print, when I slice it using their default settings for my printer and the default settings for PLA filament, the gcode it produces takes twice as long to print.

I've printed a few things I've sliced, they all turn out fine and as you say, if it isn't broke..... I just wondered what settings they used when they sliced for it to take only half the time.

More than happy to just continue printing with current settings though, wanted to know more out of curiosity.

[Bikeracer]

Purely my own opinion, but I think a lot of printer manufacturers supply an optimised file to show off their printer because the Benchy is recognised by most people doing 3D printing.
As long as your printer reliably makes things you're happy with, then it's probably all that really matters.

It could be that the file on the internal memory will just print faster, it's my understanding that an external source such as a USB cannot transfer the information at the same speed.

[CrazyIvan]

I agree. Tuning for fast printing is a fool's errand unless you're trying to prove something or are going into mass production. The tuning settings for one print might fail on another. The time you spend tuning (for a one-off) won't get recouped in the actual print, and it will probably take a few experiments to get there anyway.

Go with the presets; the sooner you commence a print, the sooner it completes. I'll take reliability over speed, if I don't have to keep an eye on it I get on with something else in the mean time (eg sleeping).

PS: I've never printed a Benchy either.

[CrazyIvan]

It could be that the file on the internal memory will just print faster, it's my understanding that an external source such as a USB cannot transfer the information at the same speed.

The data rate required is tiny compared with the capability of USB, even USB1.

[Antipodean]

It could be that the file on the internal memory will just print faster, it's my understanding that an external source such as a USB cannot transfer the information at the same speed.

The data rate required is tiny compared with the capability of USB, even USB1.

Agreed, I certainly don't see that as a factor in printing speed.

You would need to do a gcode comparison of the two files to see where the difference in time lies.

[Bikeracer]

It could be that the file on the internal memory will just print faster, it's my understanding that an external source such as a USB cannot transfer the information at the same speed.

The data rate required is tiny compared with the capability of USB, even USB1.

Perhaps I should have phrased it better, I remember seeing an article on SD/USB cards causig trouble that was something to do with the resume feature on the printer, from memory it was something about the printer firmware frequently getting interrupted to update the data.

I did say it was my understanding about using an external memory source.

Why have you again made a comment about something I posted that just seems to denigrate it. You did the same regarding how a heat brake works, it was obvious then that you didn't really have an idea, I posted a video to clarify it.
You have a way of replying in a patronising and condescending way, even assuming in that thread about what I probably thought.
Little wonder that a new poster left after the way you made no allowance for his/her health problems regarding attention span and basically insulted the poster by asking if he/she had ADHD.

In one of your posts you said you wanted people to come here for your expertse, really. Your expertise seems to be mainly gathered using a very small and very limited 3D printer which is just one step above being a toy.

It really is a waste of my time trying to help people here so I won't bother again, my posts just seem to irritate you.

[CrazyIvan]

Why have you again made a comment about something I posted that just seems to denigrate it.

That's really not fair. Try reading things without bias and being paranoid. It is a fact that USB is plenty fast enough, you can't deny it. Claiming that disagreement is denigration is just plain ridiculous, and snowflake.

Not that many (cheaper) printers have USB master ports – the USB master protocols are much more complicated than USB device and CF read/write, and would consume significant processing and firmware capacity.

The resume feature works by saving the printer state periodically. That will slow down the overall print time a little, regardless of where it is saving to.

You did the same regarding how a heat brake works, it was obvious then that you didn't really have an idea, I posted a video to clarify it.

If you want to discuss the heat break thing, you should do so in the appropriate thread, but the YouTube video you linked was somebody's opinion of what happens, not proven fact, and cherry-picked to support your view. Perhaps that's where you got your view in the first place. Most, if not all, things FDM are opinion, and it hurts no-one to discuss conflicting opinion – only then will we come to a consensus.

You have a way of replying in a patronising and condescending way, even assuming in that thread about what I probably thought.

So you say. How many others agree – anybody support the position, or is he just wanting to read that in? Perhaps there's a language barrier (between generations, if not nationality – please note I am of a generation used to correct grammar and punctuation, which may seem curt to GenZ).

All I've done is explain my opinion, the same as you've explained yours. I don't recall you presenting a technical explanation to refute my technical explanation. Your huff seems to be simply because I don't agree with you on that particular matter.

Little wonder that a new poster left after the way you made no allowance for his/her health problems regarding attention span and basically insulted the poster by asking if he/she had ADHD.

You're putting words in my mouth. I did no such thing. As to whether the poster left: that's quite normal, on most forums. People present a question and then disappear, often without even coming back to see an answer.

In one of your posts you said you wanted people to come here for your expertse, really.

Citation please, otherwise your accusations are unsubstantiated. However, I will point out that so far I have been the ONLY MEMBER on this forum willing to put any time into supporting it. That buys me some privilege.

Your expertise seems to be mainly gathered using a very small and very limited 3D printer which is just one step above being a toy.

My expertise comes from having a lifetime's education and career in science and engineering. All FDM printers work on the same engineering principles, "toy" or not. I use my printer to support small-scale engineering projects (a great many of them), so it is a tool not a toy, and I have built up a great deal of experience with it, and drawn well-founded conclusions (which do not always agree with mainstream "wisdom" but I can certainly substantiate them – take, for example, my assertion that slicers get the first layer wrong).

If anything, I am not insulated from the realities by the sophistication of "non-toy" machines.

It really is a waste of my time trying to help people here so I won't bother again, my posts just seem to irritate you.

If you think that, do as you like, but it's not true.

What actually irritates me is somebody with a closed mind unwilling to debate. If you just assume what you think or what you've read on the Internet or in a YouTube video must be right, you're in for a shock, and you might as well hang out with similar people (they live on Facebook).

If on the other hand you are prepared to stick around and discuss things without this bile, I welcome that and it will be an asset to the forum.

PS: At risk of upsetting you further, it's "break" not "brake".

[Bikeracer]

Okay.....

Here's the citation you wanted from the Off Topic category regarding people using Face Book

quote...."Yes, I see it happening and see you're trying! I won't get involved over there though, make them come here if they want my expertise."

I posted the video link about hot ends to hopefully help the opening poster by demonstrating how they work. You've decided that that was cherry picked to support my view and just an opinion. Well it certainly makes more sense than your ramblings of how a heat break works.

Is this quote from your reply to poster KingJohn putting words in your mouth?

quote..."FFS stop panicking! Are you ADHD by any chance? I've told you SEVERAL TIMES this is a learning process, you don't expect instant results and IT WOULD HELP ENORMOUSLY if you read things beforehand and watched a few YouTube videos before you dive in so that you know what's OK and what's not."


The same poster put seam instead of seem in a post, what an earth shattering spelling mistake for you to pontificate
about.

In reply to a post by 'luke2152' you said Bamboo offers a wide range of build plate materials,
You put Bamboo instead of Bambu
People in glass houses really shouldn't throw stones.


Suggest you contact the producers of Prusaslicer, Orcaslicer, Bambu Studio, Cura etc. etc.etc. then you can explain and substantiate your assertion that they get the first layer wrong in their slicers.

I apologise for upsetting your sensibilities by making a spelling mistake, I've now ordered a hair shirt to make penance.

I actually hang out on another forum with the adults, it's preferable to this one with its pedantic moderator full of his own importance.